Ask the Image Expert

Sherry Maysonave is the founder and president of Empowerment Enterprises, one of America's leading communication-image firms. Sherry conducts corporate seminars and coaches executives, professionals, and politicians in achieving excellence in communication and image. She is also the author of Casual Power: How to Power Up your Nonverbal Communication and Dress Down for Success

Power Dressing for a "Squatty" Body

Question: I am hopelessly cursed with my genetically inherited squatty body, and have a terrible time finding affordable clothes that look descent. I'm 5' and right at 200 lbs. I am very healthy have long light brown hair and am fair completed. I also have a problem with finding makeup that doesn't look fake and isn't just a pain because it usually bothers me especially around the eyes, Oh yeah I wear glasses too! I'm 42 and am in a roll model position at work but arrived there by my abilities not by appearances, but know more than ever now how appearance is very important, so that I'm listened to and have an influence on the people that come to me for help, I am aiming to express the higher level of self-esteem I possess now,and appear my age. I really make just about enough money to make a living not much extra at all so I'm in a trap. I just want suggestions on where I can buy clothes and what business casual apparel will work with this body and what brand of makeup to try. Thank you.
Julie

Answer: Dear Julie,
With your body-type and weight proportion, our goal is to make you look taller and thinner. An immediate way to illusion on some extra inches in height is a shorter hairdo. You describe your hair as “long.” Since you are 5’ in stature, longish hair works against you, making you appear even shorter. Then, you will look heavier, too. This does not mean that you have to go with an ultra-short do. It does mean that to look taller, the longest hair length you can have is just between your chin line and the top of your shoulders. If the top of your shoulders do not show, you will look shorter; then your long hair drags down your entire image. It may seem odd, as long hair is a vertical. But in this case, the principle works in reverse. Ideally, your body should be the longer part of your overall silhouette, not your hair. That is why revealing the tops of your shoulders is essential to making you look taller.

It sounds as if you qualify for petite sizes, but petite in Women’s sizes, not the regular misses sizing. Many people are not aware that “half sizes” in the women’s department (i.e. 16½ W) are actually petite, but they are also scaled for a body type that carries extra weight. August Max Woman (part of the Casual Corner Group) is an excellent source for such sizes and for well-priced professional attire. Also many department stores have Women’s departments which would also stock the half sizes.

With your clothing, you want to create a vertical illusion to add height, power, and professionalism to your image. In my book, Casual Power, how to achieve a vertical effect without looking manly is discussed in depth. And there are color photographs and drawings to depict each point. Basically, you have three most-flattering-outfit choices when working toward the vertical. One consists of a matching jacket, pant, or skirt worn with a contrasting colored top or blouse. The second choice consists of a bottom (skirt or pant) that is in the same color tone of your top or blouse; then paired with a contrasting colored jacket. And thirdly, monochromatic looks (all garments in shades of the same color) will look terrific on you, especially if you put the darker tone on your bottom half and the lighter shade nearer your face. Avoid sharp contrast, like a black skirt worn with a white blouse; this cuts you in half. A coordinated outfit look is especially important for your body type. Also you should avoid garments with a lot of fabric, no broom-stick skirts for you. Stay with the straighter-lined, tailored looks. Simplicity is your key to chic.

Makeup foundation for fair skin needs to blend perfectly with your facial skin tone. Prescriptives offers a “custom blend” foundation that is excellent. It is mixed by hand at the counter based upon your coloring. The Prescriptives custom-blend foundation costs $55, but it lasts for almost six months. If that is out of your price range, then try Revlon’s “New Complexion” foundation. It is available in an oil-based type or a water-based (oil free) foundation. That line is sold in most drug stores and grocery stores and costs around $10. Of course, you have to select one of the line’s pre-mixed colors. With all that said, since makeup bothers you around your eyes, you may want to try the Clinique products as that cosmetic line was developed for sensitive skin. It’s available in most department stores. If you’ve made some cosmetic-buying mistakes, take the products back. Most all cosmetic companies and stores (even drug stores), allow returns on makeup that does not work for you.

Keep experimenting with makeup. It’s worth the effort because women who wear tastefully applied makeup earn 20 to 30 precent higher incomes. And on the nonverbal level, women who wear well done makeup are perceived as more confident and polished. Surprisingly enough, women who wear too much makeup and women who wear no makeup are both perceived as having low self-esteem.

Best of luck to you,
Sherry Maysonave

Also see:

  • Tips for overweight dressing
  • Ask your image questions
  • Personal Power: A case study from 'Casual Power'